Cold Carthage!
Our first full day in Tunisia came after a full day of travel - through Amsterdam and Paris. Upon arriving in Tunis, we sat blurry-eyed in our taxi as it zoomed away to the city center toward our hotel (El Hana Interntaional) that night.
It was cold and windy the next morning - not exactly what we expected of a north African country, but we knew that the Mediterranean greatly influenced the weather here more than the Sahara. Breakfast at the hotel and then off by train to Carthage, buying tickets proved to be easier when I showed the ticketseller the Arabic word for Carthage. We ended up walking the wrong way to the site of the Carthage ruins - and it didn't help that we started up the wrong hill. Knowing that Carthage was on a hill, and with help from a local, we made it to the museum after a trek up some steep stairs and past a few stray cats.
The museum was cold and gray, but so fascinating as we stood there trying to comprehend the centuries and millenia of events that had taken place on that hill. We poked around the ruins, filming amongst the large stones that once stood in glory before the Romans and succeeding generations pulled them apart. After the fields of ruins, we warmed up inside an enclosed museum full of mosiac tiles and artifacts from the Carthagian era. Outside, it downpoured and we felt very lucky we were high and dry in history.
With our museum ticket, we also had access to the other Carthaginian sites, so we walked to a set of reconstructed Roman villas looking out over the Gulf of Tunis. It was incredible to see what life must have been like for the wealthy during that time - beautiful views and an airy house.
In hindsight, we should have taken the train to Sidi Bou Said, but we were hopeful to see the US World War I cemetary. We ended up walking on the main road past the Presidential Palace and got funny looks from the gaurds as we were the only pedestrians in the area. Further up the road, we passed a car accident and roads that didn't seem to fit with our Lonely Planet map. Forget the museum, we were hungry - and luckily - we hit Sidi Bou Said just as our frustration and feet were about to give way. We found a wonderful pizzeria that had great chicken pizza - the best we would have on the trip!!
Sidi Bou was like nothing we had seen - blue windows and doors set in white buildings, tiny and charming on a high cliff above the Mediterranean.
This was the Tunisia was had seen in the postcards, and we would have been in the postcard, but it was raining, windy, and very cold. The Mediterranean was slate gray and it felt like the winds would pick us up and plop us in the water.
Weary and cold, we stopped at a local restaurant for our first taste of brique - a fried egg pastry that makes our mouths water just thinking about it!